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2005 Mad Dogs & Englishmen Shiraz Cabernet Monastrell ($10)

Entrepreneurial importer Peter Click brings in this oddly named blend of full-bodied red varieties. Made with grapes from the hot Spanish region of Jumilla, it balances plummy fruit against firm tannins.

2004 Guenoc Lake County Cabernet Sauvignon ($18)

Vineyards in Lake County, a warm growing region north of Napa Valley that’s just beginning to make a name for itself, provide the fruit for this berry-flavored Cab from one of California’s oldest wineries.

2004 Massolino Dolcetto d’Alba ($20)

Massolino, in Italy’s Piedmont region, is known for its pricey Barolos, particularly the sought-after Vigna Rionda Reserva. This Dolcetto, with its raspberry scent and earthy, tangy flavors, shows that the winery performs brilliantly at all levels.

2004 St. Francis Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon ($20)

With this vintage, Sonoma’s St. Francis Winery started reducing vineyard yields and cutting back its production. This luscious, black cherry–driven Cabernet shows the noticeable jump in quality.